| 1 |
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First things
first. These are quality items made to exacting specifications, one of which is that the
mount should not need any more depth that the servo - we're using thin servos for a reason
aren't we...
So, take the sticker off the side of the servo that will be against the wing skin and
replace with some diamond tape or similar thin tape.
If you really want to keep the sticker on you will have to add washers of similar height
between the servo and screw mounting blocks of the frame, otherwise your servo will press
against the wing skin. |
| 2 |
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If you are using
the metal servo arm, use a file to remove the lip. This isn't totally necessary but it
will reduce the amount of material you will need to remove at step 3. The plastic arm comes with no lip, so you can skip
this stage. |
| 3 |
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Decide which way
your servo is going to sit in the mount (i.e. the side the output shaft will sit) and use
a round file to remove enough material so that the servo sits flush in the frame and
allows the arm to move without catching the frame.
This step only takes a second. |
| 4 |
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Screw the servo in
to the mount using a wide, flat bladed screwdriver.
The screw holes in the servo are fractionally smaller in diameter than the plastic screws
- this is deliberate and the slight pinching will stop the screws coming loose unless
tackled with a screwdriver. |
| 5 |
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Once the servo is
screwed in the frame use a scalpel to remove any excess screw that is proud of the frame.
Make sure you've done a good job by checking that the frame and servo will sit on a flat
surface.It makes good sense to do the
same trimming procedure with your spare screws. |
| 6 |
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Put the servo arm
on and make sure you have free and full movement, anti-clockwise... |
| 7 |
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Clockwise... |
| 8 |
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And middle. |
| 9 |
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The plastic arm
should be fine as it didn't require any trimming. |
| 10 |
You
may find it less fiddly, and easier to align the servo arm with the control horn, to have
the servo in the frame when you glue the frame in the wing. There are lots of ways of attaching the frame to the
wing and you may have your own ideas, so I'll just bullet point a few things to consider.
- If you plan to remove the frame when you sell
the model laminate some glass or carbon cloth to the wing skin where the frame will be
attached. This extra protection may also be wise if you fly in rough terrain and there is
likely to be a lot of shocks transmitted to the mounts.
- Make sure there is no grease on the frame
when you glue it in.
- Don't stick the servo to the wing skin. If
you are fitting with the servo in place just tack the frame in place with a very light
smear of 5 minute epoxy, remove the servo and then reinforce.
- If you're paranoid about sticking the servo
in place there is enough tolerance in the mount to carefully wrap the servo in thin tape
and/or lightly smear with release.
- Remember that the servo is a good fit in the
frame so don't build up a fillet of glue on the inside wall of the frame where the servo
will sit.
- Only use light pressure when holding the
mount in place, you don't want to distort the wing skin.
- Using good quality silicone is fine but if it
does come off the only thing that will re-attach it will be more silicone and you can't do
that on the side of a hill. I prefer a good 5 minute epoxy like Z Poxy, Devcon or NHP.
- Just to satisfy yourself, it is probably a
sensible idea to periodically check that the screws haven't come loose, although this
should be apparent by any slop in the control surface. No problems have been reported, but
we're talking about heavy models going very fast so good housekeeping is important.
- Cut your spare screws to length before you
fit the mount - it would be uncool to have them sticking through the wingskin!
|
| 11 |
Finally,
if you have any feedback please let Soarhigh
know. |
