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Your
average RC switch, used them for years, occasionally they get a bit intermittent,
sometimes black wire corrosion gets right in there. When my first Viking had rather a fast touchdown (immense crash) the
switch went a bit intermittent, so I took it apart... |
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Even
before getting a deep down to look at the state of the contacts, have a gander at the
standard of the soldering, and look at the pinching where the wire entered the case. I've now replaced three switches and the soldering on
this one was actually the neatest, scarey... |
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This
is the Maplins switch I've started replacing my switches with. |
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Don't
know what the Amp rating is at the voltages we use, but in practice I've had no problems
drawing quite a few Amps through it. |
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Mmmm,
lots of lovely contacts... |
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Wire across the two sets of contacts for each position. Thread the tinned
wire through the holes so that you get some mechanical strength as well as the soldering. Make sure your battery input connection is the centre
one, which means that in one position the left lead will be live and in the other position
the right lead will be live (one to the Rx and one for charging). |
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Tin,
twist and solder the negative leads together and slip a bit of heat shrink over them. |
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Once
done, pot the lot in epoxy for strength, insulation and durability. |
This method works for me. If
you have a better method let me know and I'll share it here.
Boring legal bit because we
live in a bizarre society where cack-handed, knuckle draggers can sue you because of their
own ineptitude... Anyway, I can in no way be held responsible if you try this and it goes
horribly wrong and you damage anyone, anything or yourself.
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